Black licorice

By Deborah Fulsang

Black licorice has a polarizing effect: Love it or hate it. The same can perhaps be true of fragrances sporting the dark sweet essence. But we love how the note, derived from the root of the licorice plant (an herbaceous perennial called Glycyrrhiza glabra, if you must know) can inject an offbeat elegance into a fragrance. Then again, we’re never one to turn down a flaming Sambuca shooter in the right company.

The latest spritz from Lanvin, Lanvin Me, relies on black licorice wood and sandalwood to bring warmth and a touch of quirkiness to its sweet gourmand character. It sates your scent-loving sweet tooth with a sparkling mix of fruit and tuberose notes and then gives you something more to think about with the dark candy undercurrent. EDP $95 (50 ml), www.lanvin.com, www.holtrenfrew.com

The licorice trend has been seeping in for some time. But then again we’ve been looking out for it, being in the black-licorice “love” camp.

A few years ago, Diesel Loverdose screamed for our attention with its recipe of mandarin, star anise, jasmine, gardenia and licorice. We dug its rock ‘n’ roll, in-your-face vibe—perfume-wise and in the ad campaign and bottle design, a lie-on-your-side purple glass heart. It had something to say, whether you liked it or not. EDP $93 (75 ml), www.diesel.com

Then Guerlain got in on the action with La Petite Robe Noire, giving its licorice a proper Parisian spin with almond, berries, bergamot, cherry, patchouli, black tea and of course, the house’s signature Guerlinade. Young and spirited, this is black licorice for the candy-loving 20something crowd. EDP, $90 (50 ml), www.guerlain.com

For those who appreciate licorice’s darkness more than its candy sweetness, we turn to Hermès Brin de Reglisse. Where licorice is bold and opinionated, at the storied French house, it is also elegant. Master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena spins it with lavender, the scent of dry warm hay and a hint of orange blossom. EDT $240 (100 ml), www.hermes.com

So if you’re up for some scent experimentation this spring, here’s to sating that sweet tooth.