Travelling through Morocco: an aromatic adventure

We tag along with writer-editor Hina P. Ansari as she smells her way along a scent-sational 14-day road trip through Morocco.

When one thinks of Marrakech, you automatically think of the souks, the snake charmers and yes of course the tagine. However, when I embarked on a two-week trek covering approximately 12 cities including 2 nights in the Sahara last year, it was a brilliant sensory overload.

A rose by any other name…

Roses are one of the most revered flowers in Morocco. In the Dr’aa Valley, the much-acclaimed rose festival is a local economic engine. These iconic blooms are also one of the key cosmetic drivers as well.

Walk into any market and you can easily find a rose boutique. Which looks like a pharmacy with this crisp white appearance and white coat-wearing attendant. However the rose-infused products are not to be casually glanced over. It’s worth taking a closer look, feel and smell. Take in the incredible aroma as you test out the endless variety of rose-infused products including skin creams, makeup removers, massage oils, skin cleansers as well as rose water and candles for aromatic use around your abode.

Argan oil, the natural healer

Berber (Amazigh) are the indigenous population of North Africa; they represents a large majority of the Moroccan population. The Moroccan government-endorsed natural herbs and oils stores, called “Berber Pharmacies”, likewise seem like medical facilities given their white-coat-uniformed staff. And what a shopping and scent overdose! But in a good way, of course. These shops are stocked with all sorts of natural herbs and oils mixed in selective ways geared to cure common ailments from sore muscles, sinus congestions, insomnia, headaches, back aches and dark circles.

Argan oil is the base of all things Moroccan. Due to the country’s combination of weather and altitude, Morocco is one of the two places in the world where the Argan tree is indigenous. The prized oil can be used mixed with various other potent ingredients and essences including oranges, mint, absinthe and roses. It’s an obvious natural conditioner for your skin and hair, but Argan oil is also pretty great as dipping oil for your favorite bread, pastas and salad. Who knew?

And speaking of food…

Fancy feast

Throughout my cross-country trek, I discovered a wonderful local tradition. At the heart of the “medina” the town square of each city, you can find an endless array of various sidewalk eateries boasting an incredible mosaic of culinary dishes roasting right before your eyes. In Marrakech at Jeema el-Fanaa, the main square is taken up by rows upon rows of white tents each housing various eateries. You can see smoke billowing up from the collection of white canopies, as you hear restaurant workers trying to convince the passers by to take their seat at their station. What you cannot ignore is the incredible sensory adventure this becomes.

Aromas waft from the tagines, which is a term not just for this cone-shaped ceramic pot but the variety of chicken, fish or beef dishes that are cooked within them. These are slow-cooking on the grill—everything from brains, hooves and heads of calves, goats and sheep is being roasted—and those smells combine with the scents of kebabs, grilled vegetables and mint tea to fill the air. All at once. And it’s glorious.

Just a two-hour drive from Marrakech, you arrive at the heavenly fishing village of Essouira. There, the potent scent of the fresh catches of the day hangs heavy in the sun, mixed with the aroma of the spices from the line of grills of the open-air kitchens which fill the boardwalk. Common spices such as cumin, saffron, salt, turmeric mixed with lemon juice and other herbs such as parsley and onions, provide an exquisite feast for all of your senses.

To finish all of the gastronomical adventures is of course, Moroccan mint tea. I consider mint tea to be one of the four food groups: It’s delicious beyond words. Especially, when in a Moroccan tea glass loaded with fresh leaves.

The first time I had mint tea with the mint being in the cup as opposed to being in the kettle was in Fes. And since then, I always ask for the mint in the cup. Because not only are you indulging in what is already a very flavourful hot soothing drink, the added luxury of having your nose cozy into a mini garden of mint in your cup is something that I find très luxurious.

So yes, I fully encourage booking a trip to this magical country, and if you go, make sure to close your eyes and let the aromas guide and bewitch you.

PHOTO: Mohamed Rachyd / Desert Majesty